Thursday, May 25, 2017

21 May - 25 May - Isalo to Ranomafana

It was a struggle posting this one due to spotty internet, but it's now done.
 
21 May 2017 – we leave Isalo for Ihosy, leaving the cliffs and entering several changes of landscape. This day is 105 km and we’re in hilly terrain, lots of climbs and descents.
 



The roads have exceeded our expectations with the exception of a few places where erosion has completely removed the surface. We can usually avoid the potholes on the bikes.

looking back at Isalo. The park we visited yesterday is in the hills behind the town

...and into prairie like terrain for a while.
That's Ursula down there with terraced fields behind

Lunch time... a snake had caught a mouse and was in the process of trying to swallow it.

The town of Ihosy where we will be tonight
 22 May 2017 – Ihosy to Ambalavao – 130 km with a very long brutal climb from 100 to 112 km. At that point Rae was finished and got on the support truck. Ursula, bless her, had it in her to keep going, do another steep 6-km climb before descending to Ambalavao. Again, we went through noticeable changes in landscape. Dwellings changed from single room wooden construction to mud-brick and eventually more substantial brick. Rooves changed from thatched to corrugated steel or wood shingle. They grew from single room huts to two and even three-storey structures.
 
JoJo, a Namibian national team rider (he's faster than us) riding with us while recovering from an accident.




 


Not far from here, fatigue and heat got to me and I got a lift to the hotel on the bus. Ursula had enough in her to finish... it was a long day with long steep climbs
 
23 May 2017 – Ambalavao – Ranomafana National Park – 121 km starting with another tough climb – close to 10 km as if we were climbing Thunderbird ridge on the way home. More changes of scenery ending the day in rain forest which is as far east as we’ll be on the trip. We chose to ride the morning but catch the lunch bus into the hotel for the rest days hoping that we’ll get good recoveries from fatigue, sun, saddle sores, and other minor ailments.


There is smoke everywhere. Cooking fuel is either the gnarly hard wood that people carry in from all over or, if they can afford it, charcoal.

Brick making is everywhere and often mixed in around rice paddies. This is a fairly substantial operation but we've seen other that are maybe 20 feet by 20 feet in the middle of terraces.

 
 

These four-wheel carts are everywhere. Wheels appear to be made from wood. We've seen big heavy loads being pushed up hill and we've seen people on them riding them downhill. They are steerable, but it's pretty loose steering.

Ursula's answer to the adequacy of SPF 50.

Lunch in churchyard. We were watched by locals... see the next photos.

 
 
Rae and Ursula with Derac. He is the son of our driver during the first two weeks that we were here and is working both as a translator and support staff.




Amazing butterflies in this country
 
24 May 2017 – Rest Day and a visit to Ranomafana National Park – a four hour hike with a local guide – they are outstanding at finding lemurs and chameleons. We saw golden bamboo lemur, grey bamboo lemur, red-fronted brown lemur, and sifakas. In the evening, meaning after dark, we did a walk along the road for about an hour, briefly saw a mouse lemut plus at least a dozen different chameleons.
 
Our room for three nights, and so far top of the list for fancy mosquito netting.


Herd of zebu that we encountered on the walk to the park. Apparently these are on a 500 km journey and they jusy walk them down the road.

Golden Bamboo Lemur

Grey Bamboo Lemur

Grey Bamboo Lemur

Sifaka

another bird for my brother to ID

...and then at night, chameleons...


...and a tree frog.


25 May 2017 – a real rest day… massage in the morning for both of us, then blog and repacking for the next leg which will be four riding days (one night which will be the first to be camping, then two days on a river boat, camping that night, then another riding day to the next rest in Morondava.
 


Sunday, May 21, 2017

May 18-19 - Serious riding

The daily routine is to get the bags out to load on the truck at 0615, breakfast at 0630, on the road around 0700. it was raining when we got up in Toliara - very unusual for them to get rain at this time of year - but it stopped before we started.

Leaving Toliara... humbling when a guy on a pousse-pousse carrying a passenger can keep up with you...
There were some long climbs as we rose from sea level heading up to progressively higher planes and several changes in geography.
Road hazards... goats...
...and chameleons...
 
...and kids when you stop for a coke...
 
The heat and sunshine took its toll - so it was slow going for as and other - and we finally got into Skaraha at 1600 after almost 130 km on the road.


A hotel tonight - interesting combination of grandeur, both present and past - gorgeous ceramic tiling, modern multi-function ceiling fan - and less grand features - rickety wooden stair to climb, sagging mattress - but it was clean and we slept well.

Next day just under a hundred km to Isalo, home of the second largest national park in Madagascar.
A long steady 3-5% climb to lunch at 65 km, more changes of scenery. Pictures are in the group above - forgive, limited internet access and trying to get these uploaded quickly.

 
In the afternoon we went through a sapphire area where there has been a little boom and bust in the last 20 years.

Into the hotel at Isalo - the Relais de le Reine - unbelievably gorgeous place.
Breakfast...
Saturday was a rest day and a group of us went to the Isalo park.









We swam in a pool like this, just up the valley
The first lemurs came down out of curiosity