June 11-15 - five riding days to Mahajanga

Out of Antananarivo at 0630 last Sunday morning for six days of riding an average of 115 km per day (first 5 days) to a rest day on the west coast at the Antsanitia Eco Lodge. Even at that time of day on a Sunday, traffic was chaotic enough and as we got out of town, it was through market areas with people on foot, pousse-pousses and taxi-motos everywhere.

Once we were out of town, it was a return to beautifully manicured rural landscape and as the days progressed, more isolated, barren, and dry, and less populated.

 

Once upon a time, these areas were completely covered by trees. Colonialism is
often blamed for such ills, but apparently the deforestation happened well before,
like maybe centuries before the French appeared on the scene. People cut trees
to clear space to grow rice, to build dwellings, for firewood, and to make space for
Zebu to graze (Zebu having been introduced from mainland Africa some many
centuries ago). Some of that practice continues - we see trees being cut all along
the route to provide for people's everyday needs - these are not people with the
economic means to do otherwise. 

 

The first two days we had unbelievable crosswinds, one day generally 50 gusting 70 or 80 km/hr especially along crests and passes. I'm sure we were only leaning a few degrees into wind, but at time it seemed like we'd fall down if the wind suddenly stopped.

Several river crossings during these days... they scouted the route a year ago at this time of year and back then, this river had enough water in it that there was hardly a rock to be seen, so this year seems by comparison to be very dry.

With only small villages along the route, the plan was for four successive nights of camping.

There was a river a short distance from the campsite the first night so our
sweaty bodies at least got rinsed off

We were still at about 5000 feet elevation, so a campfire the first night
took the edge of the cool temperature and brisk wind.

second camping night on a soccer field just outside the village

third camping night under the mango trees beside a dry riverbed...
oh yes, also with a zebu trail going right through the campsite...
and the local people and their zebus are on their way to work around 0500
in the morning

The fourth day destination was Ankarafantsika national park. We (as well as half-a-dozen others)opted not to ride today in order to get to camp with enough time to do a hike in the hopes of seeing birds and lemurs. And by good fortune, they had bungalow accommodation for everyone so we didn't need to pitch the tents tonight. 

Cockerel's Sifaka

Madagascar Hoopoe

Flycatcher, exact name...?

Even when there is a colour difference from the background, it is
amazing how difficult it is to spot chameleons...

...and we continue to be fascinated with their eyes.

We would not have spotted this one without the guide.

another flycatcher...?

Egrets and herons behind our bungalow

The fifth riding day was into the port town of Mahajanga. One town on the way was in full market-mode with a steady stream of people on foot, bicycles, and zebu carts from 10 km each direction. The scope of activity in these towns is amazing...

A mill with people bring in sack of grain

both a parking lot for zebu carts and a bit of a zebu market...

...which means you need to wash the zebu.

blacksmith at roadside...

...and next door you can get your wagon wheels fixed

But perhaps what amazed us most were the birds being brought to market, feet tied together, being carried by hand, on bicycle, or on top of the local mini-van bus transports.

 

 

 

...and never too young to learn...

That night we were in Mahajanga in a hotel, with just a short day ahead to our rest day...